Best New Restaurant No. 3: Waterloo & City

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Photograph by Jessica Boone

Cooks in bowler hats searing blood pudding to the pulsing backbeat of punk? Chef Brendan Collins and front-of-the-house man Carolos Tomazos have injected the merry gluttony of a gastropub into Culver City. Pews serve as seats, silver platters hang on the walls. The restaurant’s name refers to the London subway stop near the school where Collins learned to cook before working for Britain’s original culinary bad boy, Marco Pierre White. The press of crowds can make the kitchen stumble—a modest chicken potpie isn’t hot in the center—but most dishes are spot on. Collins’s pig trotter and sweetbread terrine with salsa verde is a pugnacious update of the ploughman’s lunch. Fried zucchini blossoms burst with sweet baby shrimp. The roasted chicken halts conversation as it’s carried out of the kitchen with sprigs of burning thyme. Warm and sticky, the steamed toffee cake could only be improved with a view of the Thames. » 12517 Washington Boulevard Culver City // 310 -391-4222 or  waterlooandcity.com 

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