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Barbrix

Number 8 on our list of Best New Restaurants of 2009

Photograph by Jessica Boone

With a big-beamed ceiling, stacked wine cases by the bar, and a chef given to baggy black T-shirts rather than sharp dress whites, Barbrix is studious about seeming unstudied. Executive chef Don Dickman won acclaim for cooking straight-up Italian at Santa Monica’s Rocca. At Barbrix he pans back to take in the whole Mediterranean, pairing homemade cider mustard with tiny Spanish sausages, lending a jolt to lamb ribs with Moroccan spice rub, and countering treviso’s pleasant bitterness with ripe avocado in a delicate salad. Nothing is overstated; it’s gourmet without letting on and just the thing for the hilly bohemian terrain. The crispy grilled polenta with sautéed oyster mushrooms and a creamy Gorgonzola fonduta could be the best $7 you ever spend.


Three Pours Worth Tasting

 

 

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Parigot & Richard, Crémant Rosé, NV
(Burgundy)
“The pretty pinkness makes Crémant Rosé an even more romantic alternative to champagne for a much smaller price tag. The sparkling wine is delicious with salmon tartare crostini.” 

 

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Szoke, Király-leányka, 2007
(Hungary)

“Especially good with seafood but also good alone, Szoke is a nice early spring aperitivo with citrus and floral notes. It’s an interesting, lesser-known varietal that’s reasonably priced.”

 

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Gulfi, Rossoj-bleo, 2008
(Sicily)

“This has great mineral quality due to the vineyard’s proximity to the Mount Etna volcano. It’s balanced by lush cherry and prune notes—not too heavy for spring.”

»2442 Hyperion Avenue // Silver Lake // 323-662-2442 or barbrix.com 

Images by Larry Underhill