Food Lovers Encyclopedia: D

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Illustration by John Burgoyne

Dry Aging
[the fine line between rotten meat and charcuterie]
It took Mozza’s Chad Colby more than a year to secure the elusive permits for his brand-new dry-aging room at Mozza Scuola di Pizza. Here he cures sausages and whole muscles to produce the city’s most impressive salumi assortment, which he serves every Thursday night at the Scuola’s Salumi Bar. [See Fig. 7.]   

Durian
[what not to pack in the kids’ lunch box]
It’s not the thorny peel that makes this Asian fruit so dangerous. It’s the pungent smell—akin to rotting flesh or ripe cheese. But like its YouTube superstar namesake, the Honey Badger Café doesn’t care. The Alhambra tea shop whips the fruit into ice creams and smoothies that radiate real—not the usual artificial—durian flavor. So what does something criminally odiferous taste like? The thick, banana-like sweetness is worth the olfactory onslaught. 

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