The Neoclassicist: David Féau
[The Royce at the Langham]
Photograph courtesy facebook.com/RoyceLA
Why We Picked Him: Experimenting with slow-cooked herb broths, broad-minded enough to deglaze mustard-laced rabbit with sake, ever aware of seasonality, and placing more value on the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch than on Escoffier, Féau’s vision has crystallized in the past year as he pushes a creamless version of French cooking into an even more soulful realm. OOH LA LA: “If you do this stuff in France, they’re going to say you’re not doing French food. I want to showcase local ingredients as much as culinary tradition.” » 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, theroycela.com.