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Classic L.A. to Z: W is for WAITRESSES

Photograph courtesy of langersdeli.com

The way Eveline “Evie” Howard zips between the booths at Langer’s Delicatessen (704 S. Alvarado St., Westlake, 213-483-8050 or langersdeli.com), you’d never know she was 74. Born in Scotland, she has worked at the pastrami legend for two decades, doling out number 19s and sharp Scottish wit. “I have a mouth and I’m honest,” Howard says. She is one of a breed of veteran L.A. waitresses at places like Canter’s, Pie ’N Burger, and Du-par’s who add a dash of salty attitude to our Reubens. These women offer a break from the city’s barrage of actor-waiter food-delivery bots. They remember our orders—and if we’re nice, our names. “Its an easy job if you know how to laugh,” says Howard. “If you don’t, there’s something wrong with you.” 

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