Food Lovers Encyclopedia: E
John Sedlar's Baja-inspired claims with white wine, garlic, and epazote. Photograph by Misha Gravenor
[the reason for the season]
When life gives you lemons, make eggnog. It’s been more than 90 years since French immigrant Ernest Broguiere failed at growing lemons on his California ranch and bought a Holstein cow instead. Today the herds pictured on Broguiere’s Farm Fresh Dairy bottles look as enamored with the Montebello dairy’s custardy, nutmeg-spiked eggnog (available in early November at Gelson’s and Bristol Farms) as we are. Just add whisky. > 323-726-0524.
[Beano au naturel]
Wouldn’t you know Mother Nature would make an herb ideal for perking up black beans that also downplays the negative effects of the, um, musical fruit? Epazote is considered a weed in most of the United States, but in Mexico and much of L.A. it’s an essential seasoning. Drop some leaves into a soup to achieve an intensely herbaceous, almost minty punch. Romey Coleman of Coleman Family Farms in Carpinteria brings bushels of the Latin favorite to the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market when it’s in season—which is right now.