Depending on when you go, it’s a quiet spot to drink champagne and slurp oysters (early in the week) or a rocking nightclub with a DJ, a happening dance floor, and a line out the door (Thursdays through Saturdays). The former home of Forty Deuce has morphed into a Parisian cocktail lounge, its sunken parlor illuminated by a marble fireplace and a backlit glass dome. Drinks like the Lapin Fou (carrot, ginger, eau de vie de poire, and Chartreuse) and the Parfait (cognac, ruby port, Barbados rum, lemon, blueberries, egg whites, and probiotic powder) are as skillfully rendered as a soufflé. Good tip: A dress code means that everyone gets dolled up (translation: no flip-flops or sweatpants). » 5574 Melrose Ave., pourvousla.com.