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The Food Lover's Guide: Meat the Rest

Where’s the beef? Everywhere. Lately local chefs have been breaking out of the bovine box, serving up lesser-used cuts and a menagerie of animals. (Sorry, Thumper.) Here are four chefs’ recommendations to switch up your protein routine

Rabbit
David Myers
Comme Ça, Sona
“Most people are nervous about rabbit, but it is a light meat—very healthy and flavorful—and it breaks up the monotony of chicken. I like to slow-braise a rabbit leg with onions and olive oil.”

Duck 
Laurent Tourondel
BLT Steak
“It’s easy to incorporate this sophisticated bird into your cooking. Cook breasts in a cast-iron skillet till crispy and pink in the center. For duck confit, sauté the cooked leg meat with butter or olive oil and add it to pastas, a sandwich, or top it with a fried egg.”

Squid
Quinn Hatfield
Hatfield’s
“You can buy squid already cleaned from your fish market. Slice the bodies into rings, steam them for five minutes, and reserve them in the fridge until ready to use in
stir-fries or salads.”

Lamb Shoulder
Ilan Hall
The Gorbals
“The shoulder is a very forgiving cut—it’s virtually impossible to overcook. In my opinion, it’s also the best meat for a stew, because it has such a concentrated flavor and is supercheap to boot.”

Photograph by Carin Krasner