LAmag.com

Holy Toques!

Alain Giraud, Ludovic Lefebvre, now Walter Manzke? Manzke told our friends at
Eater LA yesterday that he “was encouraged to step away.” It never takes long for Bastide’s chefs, who’ve collectively earned the restaurant a milky way of stars, to pack up their knives and move on. What gives?

Few restaurant owners invite more speculation than Joe Pytka, who once described himself as a “prick.” He’s a 69 year old with shoulder length hair and a ludicrous stash of Chateau d’Yquem—which is but a baby subset of a wine collection so broad and deep it formed the core of the original all-French cellar at Bastide. When he and Giraud first opened (Nancy Reagan and her pal Betsy Bloomingdale were early birds), the restaurant was closed to the public on weekends—so Pytka could use it for his own entertaining. He made headlines paying $35,000 for a 2.2 pound Alba truffle a few years back. His idea of research is a non stop eat-a-thon through Europe’s best restaurants, an excursion facilitated by the use of a private jet. Suffice it to say, Pytka’s not in the restaurant business in the hopes of making a killing; he’s done that directing commercials. What he’s after is a restaurant that makes waves, that gets people (the right people, of course, the ones who are going to contemplate that 1937 Romanee Conti for $12,600) talking.

These are exciting and daunting parameters for a chef, as Giraud (who’s about to open Anisette in Santa Monica), Lefebvre (who is opening a restaurant in Vegas), and Manzke (we’ll get back to you) might attest. We’re wishing the new chef Paul Shoemaker, who was a highly valued member of the Providence team, the best and we’re on-our-knees grateful that Pytka’s not doing tapas, a steakhouse, or sushi, God bless him. But all this opening, closing, remodeling, rethinking, firing, and hiring can having a numbing effect on a diner: What phase is Bastide in now? Is it actually open? For lunch? Who’s the chef? What’s the menu? Who knows.

Here’s hoping that Pytka, who’s no slouch when it comes to attracting top talent, and Shoemaker find their groove. Our secret fantasy: A Bastide alumni dinner. Giraud, Lefebvre, Manzke and Shoemaker join up a la the 5X5 Chef’s Collaborative dinners that Cimarusti spearheads. They crowd into Bastide’s kitchen (wired, because we want to hear all the war stories) and cook their hearts out. We want to be at that dinner.

Came across this one on Craigslist:

Bartender Wanted at Tonga Hut
Reply to: (see message body)
Date: 2008-05-05, 1:23PM

Tonga Hut is hiring 1-2 bartenders that can work Wed, Thurs and Sat from 3p-8p. Please do not apply if you cannot work these specific shifts. Tonga Hut is a neighborhood bar in North Hollywood that also holds the distinction of being LA's oldest Tiki Lounge. We are located at 12808 Victory Blvd near Coldwater Canyon. For questions please call 818-769-0708. Please come in to fill out an application after 4pm only. Training starts immediately as first shift is Wed May 14th.
• Location: 12808 Victory Blvd. N Hollywood CA 91606
• Compensation: Min + tips
• This is a part-time job.
• Principals only. Recruiters, please don't contact this job poster.
• Phone calls about this job are ok.
• Please do not contact job poster about other services, products or commercial interests.

Original URL: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/fbh/668994184.html

I rolled into the Tonga Hut a few Saturdays ago and, yes, it seemed like they could use some fresher meat—and juice, now that you mention it. Of course, we love the joint for the history, the tiki darts, and the jukebox (Martin Denny and the Ramones?)—not the drinks. If I thought I could make it home in time for Lost on Thursdays, I’d take it myself. If this was Bahooka in Rosemead, I’d quit today.