“The idea is, really, what would a brasserie look like if it originated in California but with a nod, of course, to the true French origins,” Kris Morningstar says of Terrine, the former Ray’s & Stark Bar chef’s new joint effort with restaurateur Stephane Bombet (Picca and Faith & Flower).
The Beverly Boulevard restaurant, which debuts this week, will offer seasonal dinner and late-night menus featuring what’s billed as California comfort food. Dishes are accessible, filling, and, yes, often French-leaning — there’s a garlic cream-cheese dip, octopus with toasted broccoli, fish and chips, moules frites, boudin noir. Charcuterie will include terrines, of course, and you can also expect touches like pickle-brine mayo to go with your fries and house-cured anchovies on your pizza.
To complement the food’s French influences, wine director Francois Renaud (formerly at the Tasting Kitchen) has created a list focused on French labels. The cocktail menu, devised by Ryan Wainwright (another veteran of The Tasting Kitchen), offers reinterpreted classics that are both simple and fine-tuned. You might not ever think of a vodka cranberry the same way after you try Wainwright’s with cinnamon, cloves, and mace.
“I am really excited to deliver a total-package restaurant,” Morningstar says. “We have such a great hospitality-driven vision. The restaurant is stunning, our service staff is top-tier.”
But ultimately, it’s all about what the chef does in the kitchen.
“I want to put out food that is layered with flavors,” he says. “We are going to cook thoughtful, focused, fundamentally correct, soul-pleasing food.”
Terrine, 8265 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, 323-746-5130. The restaurant will open Friday and is currently taking reservations. Ask for a seat on the patio — it’s one of the loveliest in town.