Photograph courtesy thejar.com
The pointy-capped, deeply creviced, chocolate-colored cousins of truffles, braised morels are a hit at Dakota. Available from March to September, these morels are foraged in Washington State forests, braised in veal stock with a lick of cream, and piled into cast-iron skillets.
Imagine paper-thin potato slices, fried to a golden brown, then baked in a cream sauce and served in a pizza-style round perfumed with a caramelized garlic clove. At Cut, this scrumptious potato tarte tatin, which easily serves four, can be topped with sautéed bone marrow.
Julienned strips of Moroccan-style preserved lemon punch up the bittersweet flavor of the sautéed rapini at Nick & Stef’s. Surprisingly few green vegetable dishes we sampled stood up to the rich taste of dry-aged beef as well as this one, whose whisper of flaked chile gives the greens a kick.
It’s official: The Palm has added the favorite, potatoes au gratin, which regulars have long been ordering sotto voce, to the menu. Cubed, skin-on red potatoes snuggle under a cheese sauce made with white cheddar, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and a bit of smoked Gouda.
In a local Asian market, Jar sous-chef Preech Narkthong first found purple Japanese tubers called beni omo (not to be confused with the more common blue Peruvian potatoes). He roasts the fist-size taters in their skins, splits them, and douses them with crème fraîche and chives.