Meal Ticket

Our 401(k)s aren’t what they used to be, but our palates haven’t changed. So we set out to see how much serious dining we could do on a budget. By no means frugal, these three-course epicurean splurges for $35 or less feature the likes of roasted marrowbones and duck rillettes. Though some dishes change seasonally, at the following new restaurants we found combos that made for economical, delightful eating.

 

Los Angeles magazine, January 2009 

 

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 Local 

» 2943 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323-662-4740 |   map  

This sidewalk café doesn’t skimp on ingredients. Homey dishes are made from organic, seasonal, and locally sourced goodies. 1) Grilled artichoke halves with roasted maitake mushrooms and aioli for dipping 2) Osso buco-style pork shank on brioche 3) House-made cream cheese tart with poached pears and fleur de sel caramel sauce

 Total: $28 

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 The Park 

» 1400 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213-482-9209 | map 

French, Mexican, Italian, Chinese, Jewish—culinary worlds collide in this little neighborhood kitchen, and the prices are down-to-earth. 1) Cornmeal pancakes with shrimp, chipotle butter, and roasted salsa 2) Braised brisket with potato-and-onion cake and sautéed escarole 3) Baked apple crisp with vanilla ice cream

 Total: $30 

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 Palate 

» 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818-662-9463 | map 

It's wonderful when the best new restaurant in L.A. also offers some of the city’s best deals. The menu is ever-changing, but the largest dishes stay below $20. 1) Mason jar of duck rillettes with pickled sweet onions 2) California squid with sweet peppers, heirloom shelling beans, and spicy salumi 3) Selection of cheeses with dried fruits, nuts, and honey

 Total: $34 

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 Sugarfish 

» 4722¹/2 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310-306-6300 | map 

At this spin-off of the famous Sushi Nozawa, the “Trust Me” menu is like omakase without the sticker shock. 1) Edamame followed by ahi sashimi with scallion and ponzu sauce 2) Eight pieces of nigiri sushi, including albacore, salmon, halibut, and “Nozawa-style” shrimp sprinkled with sesame seeds 3) Two nori rolls filled with toro and crab

 Total: $29.50 

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 Terroni 

» 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323-954-0300 | map 

Beverly Boulevard’s noisiest Italian hot spot—part trattoria, part nightclub—feeds the beau monde, but homemade pizzas and pastas arrive on the cheap. 1) Baked oyster mushrooms with arugula and Parmesan cheese 2) Rigatoni with sausage, fontina cheese, and dandelion greens 3) Warm ricotta custard tart with toasted pine nuts

 Total: $35 

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 Delancey 

» 5936 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323-469-2100 | map 

Don’t be fooled by the red neon sign, the 20 beers on tap, and the glam-rock sound-track—this hopping Italian café is much more than a pizza joint. 1) Roasted marrowbones with grilled bread and sea salt 2) Gnocchi with wild boar, crispy sage, and green olives 3) Chilled lemon curd with whipped cream and rosemary tuile 

 Total: $31 

 

Photographs by Edmund Barr