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Southeast Asian Cheap Eats

Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:56:00 GMT

Pho Filet. Ptograph courtesy yelp/Louis N.

Banh Mi My-Tho
At this Vietnamese convenience store, a mere $3 nets you a hefty bánh mì on a fresh baguette. The soft bread has a crackling crust, the bits of grilled pork are supple and salty-sweet, and the pickled vegetables lend the right amount of crunch. The San Gabriel Valley abounds with ridiculous bargains, but this sandwich reigns supreme. » 304 W. Valley Blvd., Alhambra, 626-289-4160.

In-Chan
The Valley cubbyhole does a brisk takeout business, but we recommend dining in at this family-run restaurant. Multiple portraits of Thailand’s king radiate a sense of tradition. Mint leaves tossed with seared onions give backbone to a lunch special. There’s undeniable comfort in a dessert of neatly sliced papaya laid over sweet rice cooked in coconut milk. » 15333 Sherman Way, Van Nuys, 818-781-1234.

Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
It’s fun to assemble your own goi coun (rice paper spring rolls) at this modest restaurant. Wrap plump grilled shrimp, fermented pork sausage, or grilled lemongrass beef with Vietnamese herbs and douse the bundle in house-made fish sauce spiked with red chilis. » 1700 Valley Blvd., Alhambra, 626-943-7645.

Neri’s Bakery
Rumor has it that Manny Pacquiao is a fan of the sisig, pork parts served on a hot plate splashed with sour citrus and hot peppers. You don’t have to be training for a title fight to covet the garlicky punch of topsilog, cured beef mixed with fried rice and a fried egg, or the buttery rounds of kutsinta, a supersticky rice cake sweetened with sugar. » 534 S. Occidental Blvd., Filipinotown, 213-738-1263.

Pa-Ord
The Thai regulars who crowd the closely packed tables can do without the Hello Kitty-adorned picture menu. Here you eat among cognoscenti who specify the width of the noodles and the degree of heat with barely a pause in the conversation. Tom yum combines the kick of dried shrimp, the gaminess of chopped liver, and the brightness of handfuls of herbs. » 5301 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323-461-3945.

Pho Filet
Steak lovers might squirm at the idea of butchering slabs of filet mignon to nearly transparent sheets. But once the rare slices are submerged in this pho palace’s broth—perfumed with cloves and star anise—they could coax even a Texas cattle commissioner into trying a bowl. Slippery rice noodles and a bouquet of fresh herbs make fine accompaniments. » 9463 Garvey Ave., South El Monte, 626-453-8911.

Central/South American Cheap Eats

Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:55:00 GMT

La Cevicheria. Photograph by Lisa Romerein

Beba’s
The one and only Bolivian restaurant in Los Angeles County happens to be a remarkably comfy place to experience the much lauded sal-teñas: sweet-and-savory meat pies made with eggs and raisins. (They taste better than they sound, we swear.) The contrasting flavors of these ramped-up empanadas are heightened by a generous dose of cumin, oregano, and red peppers. » 6024 Hazeltine Ave., Van Nuys, 818-786-1511.

La Cevicheria
Central America’s singular rendition of ceviche involves the famously indelicate bloody clam known as mule’s foot, or pata de mula. This Guatemalan seafood shrine serves goblets of the pungent mollusk set off by bits of mint and diced tomato. The restaurant’s mixed seafood “Chapin” is best scooped up with saltines.
» 3809 W. Pico Blvd., Mid City, 323-732-1253.

Puro Sabor
The flavors of Peru have been popping up everywhere lately, from Beverly Hills to Hollywood. The country’s lively cuisine is nothing new to Angelenos in the know, who for years have been hitting up this Valley standout for cevi-ches and the sweet pumpkin doughnuts known as picarones. » 6366 Van Nuys Blvd., Ste. A, Van Nuys, 818-908-0818.

Rincon Chileno Deli
The South Bay branch of this Chilean favorite features a pared-down menu and seriously inspired cooking. Empanadas the size of a ladies’ clutch are loaded with chicken, hard-boiled eggs, and sweet peppers. The pastel de choclo, a shepherd’s pie-like casserole made with beef and corn, draws Chilenos from all over.
» 15418 Hawthorne Blvd., Lawndale, 310-349-2091.

Cheap Eats: Sandwiches

Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:54:00 GMT

Fundamental LA and Baco Mercat. Photographs by Lisa Romerein

Bäco Mercat
For the best deal stick to the bäcos, the signature taco-flatbread sandwich hybrids that are the creation of former Lazy Ox Canteen chef Josef Centeno. (At night he ups the ante with fancier though still affordable small plates.) The bäcos are loaded with an ethnic mishmash of ingredients such as carnitas, sriracha, spiced lebni, oxtail hash, and more. » 408 S. Main St., downtown, 213-687-8808.

Boo’s Philly Cheesesteaks
The bread: Amoroso’s. The beef: Dietz & Watson. The cheese: provolone or American. The result: a glorious cauldron of molten cheese bathing grilled onions and curly ribbons of meat. Search no more for Philadelphia’s iconic sandwich. This version should please the most demanding Philly expat. Boo’s even has Tastykakes, another City of Brotherly Love institution. » 4501 Fountain Ave., Silver Lake, 323-661-1955.

Eastside Market Italian Deli
The deli in this 83-year-old Italian market serves unfussy sandwiches laden with meat. Don’t waste your time trying to decide between moist roast beef and smoky pastrami; you can get them on the same sandwich. Throw on some snappy sausage and large, crumbly meatballs and you’ve got the popular D.A. Special. » 1013 Alpine St., Chinatown, 213-250-2464.

Fundamental LA
The spartan shop has a rotating menu that manages to be both modish and hearty: pan-roasted sweetbreads with pickled turnips, or egg salad made with crème fraîche instead of mayo. A contemporary take on porchetta—an inch-thick slab of roasted pork belly slathered with sauerkraut and XXL-grain mustard—is the crowning achievement. A sandwich might run you $10, but the quality makes up for the price. » 1303 Westwood Blvd., Westwood, 310-444-7581.

Ink. Sack
Next door to his upscale Ink., Michael Voltaggio has opened a small shop specializing in inventive sandwiches. Sriracha mayo coats large chunks of albacore in his take on spicy tuna; fried chicken skin daubed with chicken liver mousse replaces bacon in the CLT. The sandwiches are petite, but you can afford two. » 8360 Melrose Ave., Ste. 107, West Hollywood, 323- 655-7225.

Johnnie’s Pastrami
Served on a shiny bun, the hot pastrami sandwich, overflowing with peppery meat, makes grease look good. The chili cheese fries and throwback taco (that hard shell and yellow cheese again) are simple and satisfying. So is the classic lunch counter ambience. » 4017 Sepulveda Blvd., Culver City, 310-397-6654.

Mendocino Farms
From the vegan “shawarma” (it’s made with chickpeas) to the ultra-meaty BLT (with steak), the menu at this gourmet sandwich shop staggers with its variety. The burgeoning local chain aims to be all things to all people, but it’s most successful with cross-cultural hybrids, such as an updated bánh mì made with pork belly, chili aioli, and pickled daikon on grilled ciabatta. »mendocinofarms.com.

Cheap Eats: Pizza

Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:53:00 GMT

Vito’s Pizza

Los Angeles
The pie: Plain cheese
The price: Whole pie, $16.50 (feeds 3 to 4)
The style: So New York—floppy and supersize
The angle: Arguably L.A.’s first worthy pizza that remains one of its most beloved

Pitfire Pizza

Multiple locations
The pie: Greens, Egg & Ham
The price: Whole pie, $10.25 (feeds 1 to 2)
The style: Bubble-crust California
The angle: Pizzas with gourmet aspirations baked in ceramic ovens and served in spaces that win awards for family-friendly high design

Two Boots

Echo Park, downtown
The pie: The Bayou Beast with shrimp and andouille
The price: Small pie, $10.95 (feeds 1 to 2)
The style: New York by way of New Orleans
The angle: Wild combos with pop culture names from an East Coast chain

800 Degrees

Westwood
The pie: Margherita with prosciutto and arugula
The price: Whole pie, $10.45 (feeds 1 to 2)
The style: Neapolitan
The angle: Morphs from dough ball to custom masterpiece before your eyes in just over a minute

Pizzanista!

Downtown
The pie: Pepperoni
The price: $3.25 per slice; whole pie, $20 (feeds 3 to 4)
The style: Thin crust à la Bleecker Street
The angle: Punk rock, family-run enterprise that sells by the slice—an L.A. rarity

Hollywood Pies

Los Angeles
The pie: Spinach The price: Small pie, $14 (feeds 1 to 2)
The style: Two-inch-thick Chicago inspired
The angle: Pan-baked pies tall enough to make Midwesterners homesick

Stella Rossa Pizza Bar

Santa Monica
The pie: Goat cheese and applewood smoked bacon
The price: Whole pie, $14.95 (feeds 1 to 2)
The style: A crusty hybrid of California and Naples
The angle: Market-driven pizzas made from a custom-milled flour blend

Photographs by Lisa Romerein

Middle Eastern Cheap Eats

Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:52:00 GMT

Kabab Mahaleh. Photographs courtesy kababmahaleh.com

Attari Sandwich Shop
Come here for Persian sandwiches made with sausages (sosis bandari), minced meat kabobs (koobideh), lamb’s brain, and beef tongue, accompanied by chopped tomato, shredded lettuce, and sour pickles. Stay for a massive bowl of osh, a thick green lentil stew drizzled with yogurt and sprinkled with sweet fried onions. » 1388 Westwood Blvd., Westwood, 310-441-5488.

Kabab Mahaleh
The specialty at this glatt kosher eatery is koobideh, turmeric-laced skewers of ground beef or chicken with grilled tomatoes, onions, and basil. Everything is accompanied by an abundant side of sangak, a sourdough flatbread that’s baked fresh daily in a monster rotating oven. » 8762 W. Pico Blvd., Pico-Robertson, 310-275-3000.

Mini Kabob
Three tables, a tiny kitchen, and gargantuan helpings make this Armenian favorite feel like someone’s home—one that has pork, chicken, and beef kabobs on the grill. An order of succulent meat, well charred, includes hummus, whipped garlic sauce, vegetables, rice, and flaky lavash. » 313 Vine St., Glendale, 818-244-1343.

Momed
A dozen spreads and salads entice diners from behind a sleek counter, but dishes like duck shawarma—prepared with cumin, cinnamon, and figs—make this modern Mediterranean café memorable. A pastry bar offering halvah-caramel cookies, elegant seasonal baklava, and Turkish coffee helps. » 233 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-270-4444.

Shanto’s Bakery
Unceremoniously plunked in a minimall, the one-year-old Lebanese spot focuses on oven-fresh manaish—pizzalike flatbreads—topped with such traditional Middle Eastern ingredients as lean ground beef with pomegranate sauce and the spice mixture za’atar. Be sure to order anything featuring Shanto’s custom blend of ripe cow cheeses. » 3747 Foothill Blvd., La Crescenta, 818-330-9835.

Ta-eem Grill
Tender strips of chicken shawarma are sliced from a spit on full display in the front window. Juicy beef-and-lamb kabobs shaped like hamburger patties arrive with garlic-chile sauce. Service is fast and friendly at this kosher Israeli hang, but taste isn’t sacrificed for efficiency. Delicious sides include fried eggplant bits and a crisp classic: the tomato, cucumber, and parsley salad. » 7422 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323-944-0013.

Mexican Cheap Eats

Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:51:00 GMT

Mexicali Taco and Co. Photograph by Lisa Romerein

Antojitos Carmen
The Mexico City-style street food favorite has grown from a legendary Breed Street vendor to a Boyle Heights institution. Carmen Ortega is masterful with masa: Her huaraches are covered with inky huitlacoche; puffy gorditas are stuffed with salty chicharrónes. » 2510 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., Boyle Heights, 323-264-1451.

Birrieria Flor del Rio
Central Mexico has a weekend tradition of slow-roasting goat to make birria, a soulful stew with a wallop of dried chiles that will cure whatever ails you. This East L.A. dive is the city’s premier purveyor of the cumin-laced dish, which comes in bowls and is accompanied by warm handmade flour tortillas. » 3201 E. 4th St., Boyle Heights, 323-268-0319.

Cenaduria Gumacus
Most of L.A.’s Sinaloan restaurants are seafood centric, but this homey joint is dedicated to the meatier side of that state’s cuisine. Devour enchiladas del suelo (open-face chorizo enchiladas) or an earthy dish of chilorio (shredded spicy pork) wrapped in a homemade flour tortilla with pork-infused refried beans. » 8646 State St., South Gate, 323-566-5522.

Mexicali Taco and Co.
In February L.A.’s top carne asada jocks moved from a street cart into their first brick-and-mortar. Begin with the prized carne asada taco, then sink your fangs into a cheesy vampiro, which begs to be drizzled with Mexicali’s garlic sauce. The combo proves Dr. Van Helsing wrong, but it tastes so right. » 702 N. Figueroa St., downtown, 213-613-0416.

Flor de Yucatan
The cuisine of the Yucatán is expressed simply at this old-line bakery and storefront near USC. Grab a plastic seat on the patio and dig into cochinita pibil (pork slow roasted in banana leaves) or papadzules (hard-boiled egg tacos). Every weekend is a tamale fest—get ’em while they’re hot. » 1800 S. Hoover St., L.A., 213-748-6090.

Gish Bac
L.A. has the third-largest number of Oaxacan restaurants in the world—holy mole! At this Mid City find from David Padilla and Maria Ramos, the mole negro boasts a blend of more than 30 ingredients. For $8 you can order this or the sweeter mole coloradito, which blankets a plate of chicken and rice. The barbacoa enchilada with roasted goat is a meat lover’s ideal—we kid you not. » 4163 W. Washington Blvd., Mid City, 323-737-5050.

Guisados
In partnership with Armando De La Torre, Ricardo Diaz is building a Mexican American restaurant empire in East L.A. At Guisados his one-of-a-kind tacos are made with braised meats and homestyle stews. We love the hearty steak picado and the blistering hot cochinita pibil, both of which come on tortillas made from freshly hulled corn. » 2100 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., Boyle Heights, 323-264-7201.

Henry’s Tacos
In the ’60s and ’70s, the official L.A. taco was composed of a hard shell, yellow cheese, and ground beef drowned in “taco sauce.” Feeling nostalgic? The California-classic version survives at one of the Valley’s retro mainstays, which has been crafting gringo tacos with fresh ingredients for more than 50 years. Add beans and you have Henry’s “tostado”—a delicious example of Mexican Americana. » 11401 Moorpark St., North Hollywood, 818-769-0343.

Juquila Truck
There weren’t many ways to sate our late-night cravings for Oaxacan until the sleepy Westside café Juquila fired up a truck and parked it on Santa Monica Boulevard. Till 2 a.m. you can get tacos with tasajo (salted beef) or cesina (adobo-rubbed dried pork). The clayuda—pizza’s Oaxacan cousin—makes for a curbside fiesta platter. » Corner of Santa Monica Blvd. and Barrington Ave., West L.A.

Mar Azul Truck
Don’t bother asking Felipe Cejudo what’s in the squirt bottles at his undersea-themed truck. His proprietary creams, secret sauces, and coleslaw enhance sweet and tangy shrimp cocktails and Mexico City-style seafood dishes, including a cool octopus tostada. » 4700 N. Figueroa St., Highland Park.

Raspados NoHo
The torta ahogada, Guadalajara’s sauce-soaked sandwich, is not for the faint of heart (or the heartburn prone). This raspados (shaved ice) shop is the only source in L.A. for a version made with shrimp. Prepared with fiery salsa and served on La Brea Bakery bread, the spicy concoction will have you thanking Dios for the shaved ice. » 6102 Vineland Ave., North Hollywood, 818-310-5415.

Ricky’s Fish Tacos
Fish tacos are as emblematic of Southern California as flip-flops, and Ricky Pina, wearing a fedora and a grin, fries up the region’s finest. At his Los Feliz street cart, he elevates sublime strips of battered basa with homemade condiments that are 100 percent Baja love. If you’re lucky, his lobster taco might be the special. » 1400 N. Virgil Ave., Los Feliz, 323-906-7290.

Tacos Leo
In Mexico City al pastor carts flood the streets, their vertical spits spinning like sweet-savory merry-go-rounds of pineapple and pork. The custom lives on at this achiote--stained truck, where au--thentic al pastor comes in a mulita, or taco sandwich. Don’t miss the spectacle of deft taqueros sending chunks of pineapple flying into warm tortillas. » Corner of Venice Blvd. and La Brea Ave., Mid City.

Tinga
You won’t believe you’re on La Brea Avenue: This taquería puts a modern stamp on the taco but sticks to tradition where it counts. Tortillas are made fresh for versions packed with spicy braised short rib and flatiron steak and drizzled with lethally hot “dog snout” salsa. » 142 S. La Brea Ave., Mid City, 323-954-9566.

Korean Cheap Eats

Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:50:00 GMT

Chego. Photograph by Lisa Romerein

Chego
The glazed pork belly rice bowl, stocked with no less than a dozen ingredients, looks like something made by a cook cleaning out his fridge. But Kogi guru Roy Choi weaves in culture-mashing toppings like cotija cheese, water spinach, pickled radish, roasted peanuts, and fried eggs in a way that somehow makes sense. The rice bowl, it seems, is the new melting pot. » 3300 Overland Ave., Palms, 310-287-0337.

Gui Rim Korean BBQ
Few Korean barbecue destinations can match the deals available for carnivores here. The waitresses are perky, the little plates of banchan are plentiful, and the glistening strips of short rib and pork belly are slapped onto hot grills by the platterful until the room is thick with sumptuous smoke. » 3977 6th St., Koreatown, 213-387-5459.

Ham Ji Park
This divey haunt has an unwritten rule: On your table must be either a bowl of the hearty pork neck and potato stew known as gamjatang or a sizzling plate of the charred sticky pork ribs called dweji galbi. The dishes form a meaty foundation for a night of soju-fueled revelry and aid your recovery afterward. » 3407 6th St., Koreatown, 213-365-8773.

Han Bat Shullungtang
Speaking of hangover cures, there seems to be a science to sul lung tang, the soothing, cloudy stew made from vitamin-rich beef bones that are boiled for a full day. It’s like bovine-based Gatorade. Han Bat is Koreatown’s top sul lung tang slinger, and the Saturday night karaoke crowds slurp here on Sunday mornings. » 4163 W. 5th St., Koreatown, 213-388-9499.

Yu Chun Chic Naeng Myun
This bare-bones Korean dining hall—as bustling as an ice cream parlor in summer—serves the best bowl of naeng myun in town: a heap of pitch-black arrowroot noodles swimming in an icy beef broth. Spicy mustard is on hand should you wish to singe your sinuses while cooling off. » 3185 Olympic Blvd., Koreatown, 213-382-3815.

Japanese Cheap Eats

Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:49:00 GMT

Tsujita LA Artisan Noodle House. Photograph by Lisa Romerein

Hakata Ramen Shin-Sen-Gumi
Mitsuyasu Shigeta’s chain of Shin-Sen-Gumi restaurants serves everything from yakitori to hot pots. The draw at the latest branch in Little Tokyo is a pork-centric hakata-style ramen that’s meant to be customized. From the firmness of the noodles to the thickness of the broth to the flecks of fried pig’s ear on top, you get to choose. » 132 Central Ave., Little Tokyo, 213-687-7108.

Mottainai Ramen
Beyond the curtained entrance of this slick ramen house awaits one of the heartiest tonkotsu broths around. Those looking to amplify the flavor can order “spicy bomb” balls made from garlic, pork fat, and red-hot chili paste. » 1630 Redondo Beach Blvd., Ste. 9, Gardena, 310-538-3233.

Otomisan Suehiro
Six red lanterns hang outside the weathered exterior of the Boyle Heights spot, which has been serving Japanese food to the neighborhood for more than 50 years. Teriyaki, soba, and tempura shrimp round out a menu that doesn’t try to get fancy and yet remains unique. The avocado in a California roll balances the nori and the faux crab and has you looking at the classic preparation as if for the first time. » 2506 E. 1st St., Boyle Heights, 323-526-1150.

Tsujita LA Artisan Noodle House
When chef Kenta Ikehata decamped from Tokyo to open the Tsujita chain’s first branch in the States, it was akin to the Clippers landing Chris Paul. Ikehata is a tsukemen (dipping noodles) fanatic; he’s been known to toil into the wee hours to perfect his pungent broth. All that labor has yielded a bowl of silky soup unmatched in L.A. What a pity it’s served only at lunch. » 2057 Sawtelle Blvd., West L.A., 310-231-7373.

Wako Donkasu
Little wire stands are placed beneath panko-crusted cutlets to drain any specks of grease, but they are for form’s sake only. There isn’t any oiliness. Served with a slaw and a rich tonkatsu sauce (you grind the toasted sesame seeds yourself), these pounded morsels of Japanese pork rank among the finest schnitzel or milanesa. » 2904 Olympic Blvd., Koreatown, 213-387-9256.

Hawaiian/Caribbean Cheap Eats

Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:47:00 GMT

Sattdown Jamaican Grill. Photograph courtesy sattdownjamaicangrill.com

Bruddah’s
The gravy in the loco moco is just like Aunt-ie Nene used to make. The lau lau is the best of any available at L.A.’s Hawaiian outposts, its pork fork-tender inside a taro leaf casing. We rejoiced in the Filipino-inflected inihaw na baboy (grilled pork with a soy-vinegar sauce) and reveled in the macaroni salad with all the bells and whistles: carrots, egg, and potato in creamy pasta. » 1033 W. Gardena Blvd., Gardena, 310-323-9112.

Flavors of Belize
The only Belizean restaurant north of the 10 delivers the coastal nation’s Mayan and Kriol cooking in a casual setting. Paprika-infused tortillas topped with canned tuna (panades) are a steal at around $2 apiece, and the braised chicken (“stew chicken”)—with rice and beans or a dukunu (like a tamale)—recalls an evening on San Pedro Island. » 1271 S. La Brea Ave., Mid City, 323-937-7710.

Sattdown Jamaican Grill
“Once you sattdown, u be back” is the slogan here, and in our case at least, these words proved prophetic. Tony Hyde whips up the island nation’s classics, including conch fritters, shrimp patties, festival patties, salt fish, spicy goat curry, and of course, jerk chicken. The ginger drink infused with sorrel leaves is as refreshing as a sea breeze, mon. » 11320 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818-766-3696.

Chinese Cheap Eats

Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:46:00 GMT

Hsi Lai Temple. Photograph courtesy hsilai.org

Beijing Pie House
No pecan or pumpkin here. These pies are flattened bao dumplings that have been stuffed with ground lamb, ground beef, or a mix of pork, garlic chives, and black tree fungus, then pan fried to a golden brown. For a true taste of northern China, order a plateful with handmade Beijing-style noodles. » 846 E. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park, 626-288-3818.

888 Seafood Restaurant
Dim sum can be expensive, but 888 serves a parade of excitement-packed steamer baskets that start as low as two bucks. Standard fare includes shrimp har gow, pork siu mai, and the perennial favorite, the BBQ pork bun. For the adventurous (or those who love to chew), there’s the garlicky chicken cartilage house special. » 8450 Valley Blvd., Rosemead, 626-573-1888.

Foo Chow Restaurant
The signage outside that reads Rush Hour Was Shot Here might suggest a tourist trap, but the menu at this Chinatown landmark authentically represents regional Chinese cooking. Chicken, pork, and conch dishes are prepared with “red wine sauce,” which is made from a rosy variety of rice wine. Foo Chow’s claim to fame (aside from Jackie Chan) is its crispy eel coated with a rice wine and flour batter. » 949 N. Hill St., Chinatown, 213-485-1294.

Green Island
At this sharp Asian-fusion café, such Hong Kong-style standards as black pork belly and a hot pot of salted fish are cooked and served in the same clay dish; the crunchy browned rice bits stuck to the bottom qualify as a separate course. Eel fried rice is the house special, ceremoniously prepared tableside. » 500 N. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park, 626-289-7788.

Hsi Lai Temple
A Buddhist monastery contains a spare dining hall, which prepares a daily lunch buffet for monks, nuns, and laymen. A $7 donation entitles you to prime versions of chow fun, braised tofu, and sweet-and-sour pork. Buddhist clergy eating pork? Of course not, but these house-made imitation meats taste like the real thing. » 3456 S. Glenmark Dr., Hacienda Heights, 626-961-9697.

Noodle Boy
Wontons, as big as golf balls and crammed with fat shrimp, are the ticket at this tidy Cantonese noodle house. Order them plain in soup, paired with egg noodles in broth, or mixed with dry egg noodles in oyster sauce. At these prices you can splurge on extra toppings, such as sliced beef and handmade pearly white cuttlefish balls. » 8518 E. Valley Blvd., Rosemead, 626-280-8963.

Savoy Kitchen
This busy corner café is the place for Hainan chicken rice, tender pieces of boneless boiled chicken served on a mound of broth-soaked grains. Deceptively simple? Yes. Incredibly comforting? You have no idea. Sweet soy, ginger-scallion, and lime-chili dipping sauces take the flavor to new heights. » 138 E. Valley Blvd., Alhambra, 626-308-9535.

Shaanxi Gourmet
Home of the terra-cotta warriors, the Shaanxi province is also known for its flatbread, or mo. Surrounding stewed pork, it makes an excellent sandwich. Big Plate Chicken lives up to its name with a fragrant jumble of peppers, potatoes, and chicken simmered with cassia and cardamom and spooned over hand-pulled noodles. It could feed any army, terra-cotta or otherwise. » 8518 E. Valley Blvd., Rosemead, 626-283-5188.