No. 7: Sqirl

East Hollywood

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You could go to Sqirl just to read the blackboard. Jessica Koslow’s language has an irresistible cadence, deploying descriptors that make you really want to eat. That’s “bandage wrapped” cheddar in a sandwich, and what would “open-faced brioche toast” be without kale, an egg, and a shock of “lacto-fermented hot sauce”? Originally conceived as another outlet for Koslow’s superb jams, Sqirl has grown into the neighborhood commissary. Bacon serving but vegan friendly, attuned to the rhythms of an L.A. day (breakfast until 4 p.m.), Sqirl is of the moment yet anchored by something deeper. In the “dry-farmed” Blenheim apricot preserve, it’s the season, not the sugar, that glimmers.

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