No. 28: Bäco Mercat

Downtown
208

In a high-ceilinged dining room and along a terrace on Main Street, diners down applejack-cranked cocktails and bottles of house pop as they sample the nuanced engineering of Josef Centeno’s food. His umlaut-bedecked flagship has all the Moroccan bistilla and Provençal brandade you could want, and the menu weds Catalan, Italian, and Abkhazian ingredients. The signature bäco pocket may hold beef carnitas dripping with salbitxada, an almond and onion sauce you haven’t seen since Barcelona, but the kitchen has the spirit of a time-tested hash house, creating such efficient and brilliant combinations as buttered bread crumbs over chicory chiffo-nade or sriracha-glazed shrimp.  

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