Photograph by Andrea Bricco
By 5:30 the dark, wood-paneled dining room and the patio banquettes, clothed in quilted denim, have been taken over by a scrum of office workers. Here’s the place for the loosened tie and the tumbler of Hibiki whiskey. Kuniko Yagi and David Myers honor Japanese tradition with low-affect cooking. Fried oysters ride the surge of black garlic aioli. A shard of smoldering hinoki cedar perfumes the black cod. The kitchen makes ample use of binchotan charcoal, which burns clean and allows the flavors of ingredients to come to the fore, whether it’s that of the Scottish salmon—seared from the grill and a juicy medium rare—or of the meaty, near-sublime shiitake caps.